In the early 2000’s I was living a ‘Beijing Dream’ - residing in part of a ‘siheyaun’ or courtyard house at Jiaodaokou close to Nanluoguxiang. To the north, beyond the the Lama Temple (yonghegong) and the former city walls, today’s No2 Ring Road (beierhuan), lies Ditan Park. Ditan literally translates as ‘Altar of the Earth’. Throughout historic times the emperor would come to oversee sacrificial ceremonies at the summer solstices. Ditan boasts one of the city’s most popular and busiest temple fairs. At times it can be incredibly busy which some visitors feel adds to the atmosphere! The park has several tree-shaded avenues. These are lined with vibrant stalls offering craft goods and many traditional symbols such as wind chimes or multi-coloured wheels held on small bamboo poles. Healthy drinks prepared in giant copper kettles are popular as are the many grilled snack foods - sizzling sounds and aromas, sometimes spicy, filing the air.

Beijing in winter can be very dry, like this year - on one occasion at Ditan an artificial snow slope for children to slide down was set up. During the week it snowed, yes real snow! I remember a marching band dressed as 18th century French military walking through the falling white flakes while playing their instruments. At most temple fairs porters carry visitors around in sedan chairs while people dress for photography in the costumes of past emperors. At Ditan there is the re-enactment of the emperor being carried in a slow moving procession to attend a sacrificial ceremony on the central altar. All an act, of course, but he is escorted by many of his officials and servants in periodic costume. Recreations of Beijing’s former hutong life may be featured at the fairs.