Urban spread has followed the northerly valleys while south of the Pearl River much recent growth has spread across the alluvium that 20 years ago was still dotted with farming communities. Bridge construction has been vital.

Early in my stay I was taken to the delightful Beiyun Restaurant for ‘morning tea’ and a dim sum breakfast. I remember smiling and thinking how much I was already enjoying my life in Guangzhou! I was introduced to the city’s temples, including my personal joy, the Six Banyan Trees (Liurongsi) with its 11th century, 55 meter high pagoda. Larger Guangxiao Temple had a history over 1,400 years. The city also boasted several fine churches, including twin-spired Sacred Heart Cathedral in the old town on the north bank of the Pearl River. It was completed in 1888.

By 1992 there were major changes, particularly around northeastern Huanshi Lu, then the city’s principal boulevard. A growing international area dominated the locality, including the 63-floor GITIC building, today the city’s oldest landmark tower; the Guangzhou World Trade Center Complex; the Friendship Store and the Garden Hotel. I regularly visited the Garden. With access to international telephones fairly limited, the hotel’s business center was ideal for phoning back to Scotland. It also offered a delightful Cantonese restaurant where diners could sit in replica wooden boats while enjoying great food. The hotel boasted its own pub, Cheers Bar, a useful place for networking with westerners involved, for example, in infrastructure projects. From there I was invited to ‘discover’ the then-steam-hauled San-Mao Railway running through Southwest Guangdong with its stunningly beautiful countryside, particularly around Zhaoqing.