Life in the sea of death

"We all work very hard, so a drink really helps," said oil worker Yang Zhicheng, between alternating slurps of noodle soup and beer. He has been stationed here for less than three weeks and quickly discovered that there was little in way of evening entertainment.

Truck driver Memet Barat, 54, has been traversing this highway for five years. Today, he is traveling from Luntai County at the northern end of the highway to Hotan Prefecture on the southern edge of the vast desert. To him, the lights of Tazhong are like a beacon amid the sea of sand, a welcome oasis after a long, hot day's driving.

Those lights that were such a welcome sight, also represent something else to Memet -- they say that Yusupjan Yasin's kebab and noodles joint is open for business.