There are 14,000 residents in Shuanghu. It's one of the lowest population densities in China. In Dongmar township, the seat of the county's government, rows of ochre and white Tibetan-style buildings come into view. Unsurprisingly, few residents are spotted here.

After a 90-kilometer drive from Dongmar, we ran into three wildlife conservators who were on a patrol mission near the Purog Kangri glacier. At such an altitude, breathing is not easy, let alone going on routine patrols all year round. We tried to follow the rangers, but our off-road vehicle kept sinking into the snow.

There are 135 conservation staff members working in Shuanghu's 15 wildlife management and conservation stations to improve protection of wild animals. In 2018, the county government suspended construction of tourism-related support facilities around the Purog Kangri glacier to better protect the environment.