Paella for one: Barcelona for the solo traveler

By COURTNEY BONNELL in Barcelona | ASSOCIATED PRESS | Updated: 2019-11-19 00:00

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They were on girls' trips, guys' trips, family vacations and honeymoons. And then there was me.

If you're taking a solo trip for the first time, a European city like Barcelona is a good place to start. The city is dynamic. The streets and cafes are always packed. It's safe to walk around at night. And most people speak English.

Barcelona on your own means meandering the Gothic Quarter's narrow streets or the Eixample neighborhood's high-end stores and 19th-century architecture at your speed. There's also no judgment when you stop for gelato or churros and chocolate twice a day.

Here are some must-dos and need-to-knows for navigating the city solo.

Eating alone

The toughest part about on-your-own journeys can be mealtime.

Cafes and bars－the kind where most people grab tapas and wine－are everywhere and bustling.

While tapas let you sample delicacies like cod croquettes and calamari, you don't have to miss out on the paella that's usually for two or more: Chefs will make a solo serving of the rice dish.

Save most of your appetite for Spain's traditionally large lunch. The menu del dia will give you three courses and beer or wine for 10 to 20 euros ($11-$22).

Walk it off

You'll now have plenty of fuel to hoof it 19 kilometers a day and truly breathe in the city.

Many sights are blocks apart, including Anton Gaudi's iconic Casa Batllo and Casa Mila－his wavy, mosaic-encrusted modernist buildings on the bustling Passeig de Gracia shopping street.

It only takes 10 minutes between his as-yet unfinished masterpiece, the Basilica de Sagrada Familia, and the unmissable Sant Pau Recinte Modernista, a working hospital until a decade ago that was designed by Gaudi's teacher, Lluis Domenech I Montaner.

Breaking down sightseeing

One day, start at Gaudi's Park Guell and get ready to climb a hill. Part of the park is free－you can see his viaducts and gardens－but don't skip the paid area. It has a large square lined with a colorful smashed-tile bench and boasts views of the whole city.

Walk back via Carrer Gran de Gracia in the hip Gracia neighborhood, bustling with cafes and shops tucked into modernist buildings. See Gaudi's Casa Vicens, covered with tiles of yellow flowers, down a side street.

Another day, book ahead for a tour of the Basilica de Sagrada Familia, Gaudi's famous unfinished church with breathtaking stained-glass windows. Cranes hoist stones above its towers, working to realize the architect's vision a lifetime later.

Walk 10 minutes to Sant Pau Recinte Modernista, Barcelona's best-kept secret. There are few visitors despite its proximity to the most visited landmark in the city.

It's a UNESCO World Heritage Site along with Montaner's stunning Palau de la Musica Catalana. A paid tour of the music hall's colorful stained glass and mosaics is worth it, and you may even catch musicians practicing.

Montserrat

For a respite from city life, carve out a half-day for this mountain monastery. Load up on snacks and get to Placa d'Espanya train station, where English-speaking workers will help you buy a ticket from the machines for the hourlong train ride.

Take the cable car for 360-degree views of the green valley below and rocky peaks ahead. The church is beautiful, but the mountain was the star. Montserrat boasts lots of walks, including a 5-km jaunt on a paved path from the top of the peak to a viewpoint overlooking the monastery.

Afterward, you could fit in a visit to Casa Mila, which rarely has lines in the evening, and nearby Casa Batllo, with its exterior that resembles crashing waves.

Don't miss the old

It's easy to lose yourself in the grand buildings in northern Barcelona, but the Gothic Quarter's mysterious streets and cathedrals let you step into an ancient city.

Walk down the famed La Rambla street－a tourist haven of gelato and souvenir stands－until you reach the sea. Then veer into the Gothic Quarter and neighboring El Born area.

Wander through the remains of the city's ancient Roman walls and grab churros and chocolate at Xurreria.

Work up an appetite for Mercat de la Boqueria, a market where pig legs dangle near stands of colorful mounds of fruit and fresh fish. Grab a cheap but tasty empanada and a 1 euro fresh fruit juice.