The super guide of Simatai

Hikers at the Great Wall who have come across Zhou Wenjun consider themselves lucky. The 44-year-old is more than a security guard; he is a walking encyclopedia on the man-made fortifications that made it to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1987.

Zhou knows the subtle differences that set each of the 35 beacon towers apart, and he can fill you in on the salient features of ancient stones and bricks that make up the Simatai section of the Great Wall in Miyun district, northeastern Beijing. A voracious reader, he replenishes his knowledge of history every day, so that he can field questions from curious visitors. He often seeks expert advice to be on the top of his game.

"The Great Wall is an intriguing study. The ramparts and fortifications are well conceived and yet peculiarly designed to suit various sections of the mountains. Horse paths stretch from the gentle slopes and there are high stairs on the steep slopes," he says.

Zhou's appreciation of the Great Wall — an epitome of ancient Chinese wisdom and craftsmanship — is driven by a surprising demand on the job. Ever since he joined the Simatai section as a guard in 2018, he has witnessed increasing footfall of intensely inquisitive tourists.

"These people are no longer satisfied with mere sightseeing; they ask a lot of questions about the history and culture of the place. I read and learn so that I don't fumble for answers in front of them," says Zhou, who was born and raised in Xinchengzi, a small village that is a 15-minute drive from Simatai.

Zhou's official responsibilities include keeping visitors safe and protecting the Great Wall. Every day, he walks back and forth the entire 5.7-kilometer stretch, from Jinshanling in the north to Gubeikou in the west. He must ensure no one wanders off the designated path and into the undeveloped sections of Simatai or resorts to any form of vandalism.

"Things have vastly improved. Littering has stopped, and we haven't seen anyone doodling here in recent years," Zhou says. He adds that upkeep of the Great Wall, which served as a vital military defense base in imperial China, has also been up to the mark.

Conservation first

The Simatai section of the Great Wall is the only ancient architecture in China that retains the original form of Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) fortifications. In the late 1980s, local authorities in Beijing began a conservation project there.

"As a child, I remember seeing horses ferrying construction materials and laborers digging up earth and bricks in the neighborhood," Zhou says. "It makes sense to me now; the Great Wall was being restored."

When he was 12, his school arranged for a spring outing at Simatai and Zhou set foot on the Great Wall for the first time. "I was thrilled. My parents would never allow me to scale the hills before because of the perilous road conditions. The restoration project helped my dream come true," he says.

In 2010, the local authorities teamed up with investors, including China Youth Travel Service, and developed Beijing Wtown to complement the charm of Simatai. The town sprawls over five villages tucked among hills and water bodies. It features traditional quadrangle courtyards on the slopes.

Zhou Jianhong, a senior marketing manager for Wtown, says they have been constantly juggling with ideas for a diverse development of the area. "One thing everyone knows for sure is that the upgrade has to revolve around the Great Wall culture," she says.

In 2015, an ambitious idea to explore night tours at the Great Wall was implemented. A total of 2,200 LED strip lights were installed to illuminate a length of 2,510 meters, studded with beacon towers.

"Given the special nature of the Great Wall, construction safety and integrity of the overall environment had to be ensured. Strict requirements were imposed on the selection of lights and the installation process," Zhou Jianhong says.

Illumination cables were fixed using natural rocks at least a meter away from the Great Wall. The original stones of the wall and the grass growing near it were not disturbed during the development around Simatai. Construction materials were transported manually, without mechanical aid.

Tourism boom

Wtown tapped into the local culture to unleash its tourism potential. It developed workshops and designed performances to highlight historical figures, religion, trade and folk customs. The workshops offered lessons in kite-making and lantern-making, and taught enthusiastic visitors the intricate art of paper-cutting.

A kite-maker for three decades, Shi Yanfang has been imparting lessons to the young and old, and even celebrities. "Imagination is the highest kite one can fly. I am glad to see so many people interested in our culture and craftsmanship," Shi says.

To spice up the experience, yoga and tai chi classes are organized every morning. Visitors can cycle through Wtown, enjoy afternoon tea on a boat and join pool parties.

In the evening, wish lanterns are released and drone performances orchestrated. Musicals, choirs and jazz performances are curated as well. "These are a great hit, especially among international guests," Zhou Jianhong says.

Seasonal events, such as summer camps, beer markets, making of Mid-Autumn Festival mooncakes and floating paper lanterns, are in vogue. Hot springs and temple fairs cover winter and spring.

Beijing resident Lyu Kexin's curiosity was piqued when a virtual tour of the Great Wall was launched by the Wtown management and Google Arts and Culture in October last year.

The tour included a 360-degree experience of Simatai. It was meant to grant visitors an opportunity to learn about the Great Wall's history, and understand how it is being preserved. "The architectural details, covered through 300-plus images, and 35 stories about the Great Wall were fascinating," Lyu says.

While she has visited the Simatai section in person several times, she admits the virtual tour was more exciting and enlightening. "I could access areas that are not open to the public yet. I could climb steep ridges, where the narrowest part is only half a meter wide, something I perhaps wouldn't dare in reality."

Lyu adds that she was impressed with the details in the e-tour. "I could read inscriptions on the bricks that contain information about their production site, among other things."

The tourism boom around Simatai has benefited Zhou Wenjun's village, too. Homestays and eateries have mushroomed, and business is good. "Frequent visitors have prompted residents to spruce up the surroundings as well," he says.

He says the job at Simatai allows him to both stay near home and maintain a healthy lifestyle. "I have to climb the Great Wall on a daily basis, which is a great exercise. It takes incredible patience and perseverance to scale these mountains. And oh, the rush once you make it to the top."