BRANDING THE FUTURE

The fashion design industry in China has been undergoing rapid growth in recent years, and diversified yet distinctive young designers are showing their talent to the world both boldly and liberally.

Since 2013, Lane Crawford, a luxury retailer with a global reach, has supported and nurtured more than 80 young brands. For autumn-winter 2022, it is featuring nine selected Chinese designer brands across the categories of fashion, accessories, beauty and lifestyle.

Its refreshing selection celebrates the originality, imagination, individuality, and self-expression crucial to the spirit of contemporary Chinese design.

The nine brands all carry strong identities among impeccable craftsmanship, boundary-pushing design and contemporary attitude.

Yin, a young semi-fine jewelry brand, hides rich cultural deposits in its collections, such as a gold accessory inspired by the Luban lock, an ancient Chinese architecture technique where pieces of wood are exquisitely crafted to interlock without the use of nails.

Another design takes its inspiration from the "six arts" — rites, music, archery, chariot-racing, calligraphy and mathematics. These were originally referred to the six basic skills in the aristocratic education system of the Zhou Dynasty (c.11th century-256 BC).

The brand hopes that ultimately the Chinese designers will present the world with, not simply, a set of symbols or a direct appropriation of intangible cultural heritage, but a redesigned and reinterpreted contemporary aesthetic, complemented by endearing contemporary forms of expression.

Yueqi Qi, a brand established in 2019, draws inspiration from classical romantic love stories, such as Legend of the White Snake and The Butterfly Lovers.

Qi Yueqi, the founder, who graduated from Central Saint Martins in London as a fashion knit student, uses the bead-weaving technology to present her faith in love, at the same time, lights up her design with the romance and charm of the traditional elements, such as the glass beads that were popular in China at the end of the last century.

"Design is my way to pass on love," says Qi.

Angel Chen, the brand founded by Chen Anqi, entered Lane Crawford as early as 2015. It presents various perspectives, including the prosperity of Chinatown, Chinese martial arts and the legend of the grasslands, in the latest season.

The designer claims that she wishes to show Eastern culture persistently on an international stage.

"For designers, it is crucial to find the story they want to tell in this vast world. It is the foundation of design," says Chen.

Heurueh was certified as a fur-free retailer by People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals two years ago, and it has been practicing the principle of "doing no harm to the environment with designs" since its establishment in 2015 without compromising the quality of the products.

The brand believes that consumers are increasingly sensitive to the environmental impact caused by their spending habits.

In addition to the unique shapes and vibrant colors that the brand presents, it wants consumers to feel good wearing Heurueh, to express a positive life attitude by recognizing the brand's philosophy and using more environmentally sustainable products.

"Except for the visual expression of individuality, I'm also working on technology and techniques to improve the wearing experience,' says Stepheni, the founder of the brand.

"This experience comes not only from the comfort of the fabric, but also from the psychological and emotional comfort. This is what Heurueh strives to achieve."

Seville Chow, senior vice-president of Lane Crawford's fashion department, is full of praise for all these Chinese designer brands showcased by the retailer.

She mentions that Ruohan incorporates exquisite craftsmanship and Chinese cultural heritage into a minimalist design aesthetic; Feng Chen Wang and Maison Sans Titre are testing the extreme of creativity and avant-garde design, practicing silhouette variations and fabric deconstruction; Angel Chen, Yueqi Qi and Heurueh represent contemporary attitudes, as they are all characterized by strong design elements that showcase a fearless individuality or a strong commitment to sustainability with bold colors, exaggerated silhouettes and eco-friendly fabrics and techniques.

"Customers are loving more and more products from China, and as I see, this trend will continue to grow and I would like LC to be part of the support to Chinese brands in our region," says Blondie Tsang, president, Lane Crawford & Joyce.