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    Xi'an is a conduit to a wealth of ancient wisdom

    By Ryan Carroll Usher | China Daily | Updated: 2023-02-16 00:00
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    Like many who have been in China over the last few years, the notice of reduced travel restrictions filled me with excitement. Unlike many, however, I chose to stay in China during Spring Festival and visit an ancient city that had since eluded me, Xi'an. Xi'an has long fascinated me for various reasons — not only is it the home of the world-renowned Terracotta Warriors, but it has also served as the capital city at various times in China's history, including over 2,000 years ago when Emperor Qinshihuang first united the nation.

    Upon arriving in Xi'an and watching through the windows of my taxi, I was instantly immersed in the culture of the city and the festive spirit of Lunar New Year. It was astonishing to me how Xi'an had developed into such a thriving modern city, while also preserving so many elements of its ancient past and, due to it being Chinese New Year, how it had combined those pieces of the past with decorative elements of the present. The clearest indicator of this hybrid of the past and present was the old city wall that still encircled the downtown district of the city. These walls were built under the rule of the Hongwu Emperor in the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), back in the late 14th century, and still stand proudly today. In celebration of Lunar New Year, the top of the wall was adorned with massive lanterns of all shapes and sizes. There were lanterns of the zodiac animals (with an emphasis on the rabbit of course), traditional Chinese instruments, plants, and mythical creatures; a truly anachronistic, majestic menagerie. Walking atop the ramparts of the city wall amid towering lanterns, while fireworks decorated the horizon, is a moment I will cherish for the rest of my life and it made me very excited for my big adventure the next day, the Terracotta Warriors.

    As is often the case when one visits wonders of the world, it is impossible to accurately anticipate the impact that witnessing one will have, and the Terracotta Warriors were no exception to this. After a brief journey out of the city, and elbowing my way through some packed and chaotic lines, I began to wonder if visiting such a tourist destination during Chinese New Year was a bad idea, and if it would be worth the stress. It was. Before I knew it, I was standing in front of the soldiers themselves — statues that were well over 2,000 years old and, despite their ancient age, still bore the intricate details their master craftsmen had etched into them ages ago. It is a well-known fact that every terracotta warrior has a unique face and, staring at them, I had an overwhelming sensation of looking into the faces of the past. I couldn't help but wonder if the statues had been modeled after their creators when they were made. Could their craftsmen possibly conceive that, well over 2,000 years later, their faces and their artwork would be known the world over? It is the type of thing that makes one consider their legacy, what imprint we will have on the people of the future, whether we intend to or not. Nevertheless, it is an understatement to say that when I left the Terracotta Warriors, my inner fire to create was fueled.

    The rest of my time spent in Xi'an was similarly awe-inspiring, visiting the famed Giant Wild Goose Pagoda, walking the streets of the Muslim quarter, and witnessing traditional theater, all the while having some of the most delicious food of my life (seriously if you have not tried gourd chicken, try it now, it will change your life); I felt a deep sense of gratitude and empowerment. I realized that these monoliths of the past are not just things to be admired and moved on from, they are not objects to merely take selfies in front of, they are messages from our fellow humans of the past. "See what we created? Now, go forth and make something of your own!" I am so grateful to Xi'an, and the gifts its ancient residents left us. I will listen to their wise message and I hope you do as well.

     

    The Giant Wild Goose Pagoda in Xi'an. RYAN CARROLL USHER/CHINA DAILY

     

     

    Terracotta Warriors Pit 1. RYAN CARROLL USHER/CHINA DAILY

     

     

    Ryan Carroll Usher

     

     

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