Spicy strip cleans up image to conquer snack world

    Born out of agricultural necessity, latiao's popularity is spreading globally

    By ZOU SHUO in Pingjiang, Hunan | CHINA DAILY | Updated: 2024-08-16 07:10
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    Workers use latiao to make a giant tangyuan on Feb 24, 2021, to celebrate the Lantern Festival, in Pingjiang county. YANG HUAFENG/CHINA NEWS SERVICE

    Lifeline industry

    The latiao industry provides important job opportunities for the county, which was a national-level impoverished county until 2020, according to Li.

    As a mountainous county, in the past, many people in Pingjiang had to leave to find jobs in bigger cities. However, the labor-intensive latiao industry has offered locals jobs near their homes, and the opportunity to take care of their children and elderly parents, Li said.

    The average salary for Malawangzi workers is about 6,200 yuan per month, a relatively high salary in the county, he said, adding that the industry's development had contributed to local poverty alleviation efforts.

    The development has also spurred up and downstream industries, such as machinery manufacturing, packaging and rapeseed farming.

    Chen Gaoqiu and his wife have both been employed at Malawangzi factories for 14 years. They used to work in outside cities to support the family, but the salaries were not high.

    The couple can each make 5,000 to 7,000 yuan a month working for Malawangzi.

    "We have bought a car, and an apartment and we work near home and look after the family," Chen said. "As a small county, the latiao industry has offered job opportunities for many local people, so we are grateful for the industry."

    Li said he is optimistic about the development of the industry. In the past, when its image was poor, people were reluctant to say they worked in the latiao industry, and the government vowed to rein in its development.

    "However, as the industry becomes healthier and upgrades, we are more confident about promoting ourselves," he said

    Contrary to public perception, latiao is not deep fried. It is cooked by a process known as extrusion puffing, which Li believes makes it a healthy food.

    As the company invites more people and government officials to visit its factory, the perception of latiao has changed, he said, adding the local government has also offered more policy support for the industry.

    Peng Jinsong, head of another Pingjiang latiao manufacturer, Liren Food, said he started to make spicy food in Wuhan, Hubei province in 1994, before he returned to his hometown in 2005 to look after his elderly parents.

    He opened a small food factory that year, and hired a dozen local people. In 2012, he started his latiao enterprise.

    His company's sales volume has increased by 30 percent for three consecutive years, reaching 40 million yuan last year.

    The company now has 252 employees and it is targeting 80 million yuan sales volume this year, Peng said.

    Most of the employees are local villagers and they can make 4,000 to 6,000 yuan per month, he added.

    The latiao industry is developing in a more standardized, automated, and healthier way, and also transforming its previously negative image, he said.

    "As a Pingjiang person, I want to promote the local latiao snack on a bigger stage," he said. "It is not just a culinary delight, but also a comfort food for many people.

    "For me and many other Pingjiang people, the industry is a lifeline so that we can find jobs near our home and take care of our family."

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