TCM adds spice to modern diets for young consumers

With a rising awareness of health and well-being, traditional Chinese medicine cuisine is gaining popularity among consumers in China.

TCM drinks, bread, ice cream, hot pot — there has been a trend in the catering industry of incorporating Chinese medicinal ingredients into various food and beverages.

They have become unique, especially among youngsters.

At the Peerless Tea Delights shop in Xining, Northwest China's Qinghai province, various Chinese herbs are on show in glass boxes.

Meanwhile, waiters serve porridge that can strengthen the spleen and stomach, desserts that can relieve the summer heat, and tea that can improve immunity.

It was run by a TCM clinic that the family of Wu had opened for about 100 years.

Yang Yilin, 20, bought a cup of "lung-clearing and throat-moistening" tea.

"Recently I've been eating too much spicy food, which has made my throat uncomfortable. But it hasn't reached the point when I need to see a doctor and take pills," she said.

Yang had wanted to try some related TCM cuisine for the first time.

"Overall, I feel it's quite good. It's not as bitter as I had imagined," she said. "Instead, it starts off somewhat sweet and ends with a slight herbal taste. I personally like TCM as I believe it has fewer side effects on the body compared to Western medicines, so I can tolerate its taste."

Though the beneficial effect is not pronounced, Yang believes it's healthier than snacks such as fried food, to leave "less of a mental burden".

At the Sense Toast bakery in Beijing, the most popular products include toast mixed with ginseng powder, toast with rose and sour jujube, as well as toast with five black ingredients beneficial to health. These are black mulberry, black currant, black sesame, black soybean and black goji berry, which is "low-oil, low-sugar, low-fat, soft and has glutinous texture", according to Liu Lin, a store manager of Sense Toast in the capital city's Chaoyang district.

"Most customers are the white-collar workers who prioritize diet and health, with a high demand for fresh ingredients and flavors," he said, adding that the products are suitable for all ages, with a few exceptions for certain groups. For example, the ginseng toast is not recommended for children and pregnant women.

He said the company is careful about what kind of ingredients should be added, considering the preference of the public in texture and flavor. Prices for the toast range from 28 yuan ($3.98) up to 38 yuan.

Regimen-related items

Tong Ren Tang, a time-honored TCM brand, introduced brand Zhima Health in 2019 based on the concept of "medicine and food sharing the same source".

Zhima Health has put forward various types of regimen-related products, including herbal coffee, herbal tea, bird's nest and lily rice cakes, to "integrate natural herbs with healthy ingredients, aiming to promote health and enhance quality of life", according to a written interview with China Daily.

Its eight red jars with extracts from herbs such as raspberry, hawthorn and sesame can be eaten directly or diluted with warm water to spread on bread or toast. The jars are one of the bestsellers among tired office workers. Each costs about 200 yuan.

The products break traditional perceptions of food with innovative recipes, tapping into young consumers' pursuit of a healthy lifestyle, it said.

"Our main customers can be categorized into three groups: fashionable individuals who pursue quality food and prioritize health; white-collar office workers in a suboptimal state of health who urgently need to address unhealthy lifestyles and dietary habits while adjusting their mental state; and urban consumers with health-conscious habits who pursue comprehensive health management and have specific requirements for daily food ingredients, preparation and taste. They aim to enhance personal health through continuous and effective wellness practices," the company said.

Besides food, Zhima Health offers offline health consultation services.

Youth market

Like Tong Ren Tang, many leading TCM companies are investing in the food sector, tapping into the potential of a market yet to be fully explored.

An investigation initiated by the National Bureau of Statistics showed that health and wellness ranked third in the consumption rankings of young people aged 18 to 35.

On the one hand, young people in China joke about themselves being "crispy skin youngsters", mocking their poor health. In fact, it's more a complaint about stress and depression from overwork.

On the other hand, young Chinese want to stay healthy but feel it's hard to abandon unhealthy habits such as staying up late and eating junk food. Therefore, products that claim to be able to balance good taste and benefit health are favored, experts said.

Shi Jingwen, 20, barely drinks milk tea, unlike most women her age, because she said she places a high value on health in terms of diet.

But she would like to try a cup of almond tofu and osmanthus tea by Tea of Seasons, a herbal beverage brand created in 2022 by a time-honored Beijing TCM provider.

"When I learned about the products they offer based on the seasonal cycle and incorporating some TCM knowledge, I became extremely interested," she said.

"Their products can provide people with a healthy enjoyment both physically and mentally. For example, products like their mung bean soup introduced in the summer better meet people's needs for cooling down during the hot season. This can also provide a sense of comfort in one's healthy diet," she said.

She added that the products also inherit traditional Chinese culture, which is special.

The brand's founder, Wei Wei, believes that medicine and tea share the same cultural origins and can be traced back to the era of Shen Nong, a mythical ruler known as the "Father of Agriculture" in China. According to legend, Shen Nong used tea multiple times to detoxify his body. By consuming natural herbal tea, one can nurture the body and mind, thus continuing the wisdom of our ancestors, according to Wei.

Huangdi Neijing (Inner Canon of the Yellow Emperor) is one of the Chinese medical classics. It mentions "nourishing the liver in spring, the heart in summer, the lungs in autumn, and the kidneys in winter". The company develops 24 drinks based on the 24 solar terms.

Fashionable method

"The demand for fashionable health maintenance is increasing. Wellness is no longer exclusive to the elderly," said Zhang Jingchun, a doctor from the cardiovascular center at the Xiyuan Hospital of China Academy of Chinese Medical Sciences in Beijing.

"With the rise in living standards and increased life pressures, discomforts like insomnia, dizziness, palpitations, chest tightness, digestive issues and stress-induced obesity are on the rise. There is a growing desire to improve physical conditions," Zhang said.

However, the use of TCM cuisine should take into consideration one's age, gender, weight and other factors, as well as the different seasons, she said, adding that a small intake each time is preferred.

As for whether TCM cuisine can truly benefit health or is just a marketing method, Zhang said it depends on whether it's a reasonable matching of ingredients and the amount in each product.

"You cannot truly count on TCM cuisine to significantly improve health. If you really feel uncomfortable, you'd better see a doctor," she said.

Kathy Jiang, a partner expert of global consultancy Roland Berger, said young consumers are increasingly drawn to TCM cuisine due to a heightened health consciousness, cultural pride and its compatibility with modern lifestyles.

"TCM cuisine, perceived as free from chemical additives, aligns with the demand for health preservation. It also serves as a means for young Chinese to express cultural confidence and reconnect with traditional practices," she said.

"By addressing common lifestyle issues like irregular eating habits and stress, TCM cuisine offers a balanced approach that appeals to young people seeking harmony in their fast-paced lives."

She said the effectiveness of TCM cuisine can vary based on individual health conditions and needs, making it crucial for consumers to approach it in an informed way.

Jiang suggested marketing should respect the product's inherent qualities and avoid exaggeration, focusing instead on developing high-quality offerings. Innovation can be achieved by collaborating with TCM experts and chefs to create new dishes that incorporate TCM principles, experimenting with fusion cuisines and seasonal ingredients.

Zhu Sidi and Li Boyu contributed to this story.