Chef brings ideas that are in the best possible taste

At 388 meters above Shenzhen, Guangdong province, Opus 388 offers more than sweeping views of the city's skyline and its tranquil Lotus Hill and Bijia Mountain parks. With a spritz of a custom perfume — crafted from the scents of bread and milk — chef Alessio Durante instantly transports diners to Paris.

It's a small, evocative gesture that sets the tone for the night, where his culinary creations weave together flavors from the Mediterranean and the vibrant metropolis below.

Durante was a bit anxious about the evening. As the new chef, it was his first time presenting his menu to diners after a month of intense preparation. But the empty plates and satisfied smiles quickly assured him that his creations were well received.

Love at first bite

After sampling the full menu, Shenzhen radio show host and foodie Ma Hao described the meal as a French dining experience deeply shaped by the chef's personal touch.

From the very first bite of Durante's house-made focaccia, Ma was impressed. "I loved the rich, oily texture. There are so many small, thoughtful details in his dishes, like the cod mousse-filled macaroons: they were such a clever twist," he says.

The Caviar, Beef Tartare and Bone Marrow and the Foie Gras, Onion and Croissant also left a strong impression on Ma. "That seared foie gras paired with wine-soaked onions and spread on a croissant was an indulgent and impressive flavor that was hard to resist," he says.

Reflecting on the experience, he adds: "The menu feels like a complete expression of the chef's vision, undoubtedly influenced by his years in Michelin-starred kitchens. I think this marks the arrival of a fresh force in Shenzhen's French dining scene, something exciting for Greater Bay Area residents to explore."

From the Mediterranean to Shenzhen, Durante has transported not just his culinary philosophy across thousands of miles but also expertly fused the flavors of both regions, whether it's French oysters or local shellfish.

With a career spanning Michelinstarred kitchens in France, Italy and Macao, China, 36-year-old Durante is aiming to bring an elevated French dining experience to the city.

Durante, who hails from Liguria, Italy, grew up by the sea. He fondly recalls spending time in the kitchen with his grandmother, cooking together often. By 14, he had decided to attend culinary school.

A few months after starting, his parents took him to Da Claudio, a local Michelinstarred restaurant.

"They told the chef, 'This is our son, he's just started culinary school. Don't pay him salary. Just teach him the craft'," Durante recalls.

That marked his first step into the Michelin-starred world. His schedule was rigorous: attending school from 8 am to 2 pm and then heading straight to the restaurant to work.

In 2012, Durante moved to France to continue his culinary journey, sharpening his skills in some of the country's top kitchens, including the two-Michelinstarred restaurant at Les Airelles Courchevel and the legendary three-Michelin-star Le Louis XV-Alain Ducasse at the Hotel de Paris.

Working in a three-star kitchen, he says, felt like being at war: "You have to be like a sponge, absorbing everything, thus you learn a lot".

Returning to his roots in 2014, Durante spent nine years as Chef de Cuisine at Da Claudio. Last year, feeling ready for another adventure, he took on the role of Senior Sous Chef at the two-Michelin-starred Alain Ducasse at Morpheus in Macao.

Leading the kitchen

This year, Durante felt it was time for another change — to lead his own kitchen and bring his visions to the table.

"I've always worked for others — amazing chefs, some of the best in the world — but I've never worked for myself," he says. "Now, I want to follow my ideas."

In August, he got an offer to be the chef de cuisine at Opus 388 on the 77th floor of Mandarin Oriental Shenzhen.

"Shenzhen has high potential to be a fine-dining destination in China," says Durante. "This young city is vibrant and receptive, offering thrilling and innovative dishes. It's a great professional challenge for me and one that I relish.

"I believe in using the finest ingredients and creating dishes that not only satisfy but also inspire," he adds. "The dining experience at the restaurant will be memorable, delivering a narrative of flavors that resonate with locals and visitors alike."

Durante plans to introduce dishes that honor the essence of French cuisine while incorporating fresh, international influences.

Yan Man, the manager of the restaurant, was struck by Durante from the moment he arrived for his tasting interview. She and her colleagues were responsible for serving his dishes that day.

"Each dish was presented with a sense of ceremony, creating a memorable experience for the guests," Yan recalls. "He is passionate about designing that ceremonial aspect for every dish, which builds anticipation and excitement among diners."

Now, after working alongside Durante for over a month, Yan has witnessed his unwavering commitment to top standards, both in the food and the service. "He often reminds me, 'We know our dishes and our restaurant best. We should provide the most suitable arrangements for our guests, rather than simply catering to their requests'."

Throughout September, Durante and Yan collaborated to revamp the restaurant's decor, selecting and arranging many details. Simultaneously, Durante worked with the kitchen team to create an entirely new menu.

"Working with him brings the rigor of Michelin standards to life, which is incredibly rewarding," Yan says. "The entire menu and service reflect a collective effort from the whole team."

A delicious debut

The new menu debuted during a dinner event and afterward, Durante enjoyed two cocktails before sinking into a deep, restorative sleep — the best he'd had in a month. The past few weeks had been a whirlwind of menu preparations, kitchen adjustments and settling into a new city.

"I don't have time to enjoy the city but I enjoyed the markets," he says. "I want to use Chinese ingredients because we're in China."

During his market visits, he was particularly intrigued by local pigeons that had never flown, which he transformed into a standout dish on his new menu. Seafood, another area of expertise for Durante, also plays a significant role. "I come from the sea and so do my dishes," he notes.

A highlight of the menu is A Coral From the Sea, a culinary symphony presented in three movements: a unique brandade macaroon that creatively blends a classic French dessert with cod; pickled olives filled with sea bass and fermented garlic mayonnaise; and dried squid marinated in sea salt, sugar, and shrimp powder, served alongside a homemade green bean sauce.

These snacks are artfully arranged on shells, which rest atop a piece of coral that Durante personally selected and meticulously arranged.

With the successful launch of his first menu behind him, Durante is already brimming with fresh ideas, eager to transform his concepts into dishes for diners in the Greater Bay Area.