Sommelier gets art down to a 'tea'

As if the round tea bowl were a clock face, Ji Na began pouring water at the 4 o'clock position. Her hands moved swiftly, the water flowing close to the bowl's rim, coaxing the tea leaves into a delicate whirlpool. Within moments, she poured a rich, amber cup of Lapsang Souchong black tea, its aroma sweet and full-bodied.

"Lapsang Souchong is a smoked tea," Ji explains, "and to release its full fragrance, you must pour quickly, letting the leaves swirl in the bowl."

For Ji, a 34-year-old tea sommelier, this moment of tea brewing is but one part of her carefully crafted role. The Lapsang Souchong was chosen specifically to complement the upcoming dish of lightly fermented red rice abalone, a delicacy she had paired to enhance both the flavors and the experience for her guests.

"This tea is smoked with pine needles, giving it a subtle smokiness, while the tea's body carries the sweetness of ripe longan. It pairs perfectly with the wine-marinated abalone. Both the tea and the abalone hail from Fujian province, making this dish a true 'dialogue between the mountains and the sea'," Ji shares with the guests.

The evening marked a special occasion: the one-year anniversary of Fujian Restaurant in Beijing. In honor of the milestone, the restaurant introduced a unique menu highlighting the diverse flavors of Fujian cuisine.

What set this dinner apart was not just the food, but the carefully curated tea list — an unusual pairing for most fine-dining experiences, yet one Ji believed was essential.

As the creator of the tea list, Ji drew upon three years of experience and a profound understanding of both the flavors of Fujian cuisine and the complexities of Chinese tea. This pairing wasn't just about taste — it was a celebration of tradition, a marriage of flavors, and a deeper dialogue between food, culture and the senses.

Pan Xiaoye, 42, a celebrated food travel writer known as Pan Pan Mao, was thoroughly impressed by both the tea pairings and the service provided by Ji after experiencing the dinner.

Pan describes Ji's soft-spoken, engaging delivery of tea knowledge as both trustworthy and endearing. "Her approach makes you feel an immediate connection to the tea she's describing," Pan remarks.

"The tea and food pairing, which perfectly aligns with traditional Chinese flavors, was unexpectedly delightful," Pan continues. "The use of traditional teas alongside Fujian cuisine enhanced the meal in a subtle yet profound way. The tea's aftertaste was light and refreshing, serving as a palate cleanser that balanced the richness of the dishes."

The tea sommelier profession is rapidly emerging in China, and Ji stands out as one of its most prominent figures. At this year's Michelin Guide Beijing awards, Ji was honored with the Sommelier Award, making her the first tea sommelier in the world to receive such recognition from Michelin.

In its official citation, Michelin described Ji in glowing terms: "She combines technical skill with keen observations, offering insights into tea history, health benefits, and market prices. In addition to training the team in tea service, she holds a professional certification, ensuring that each guest enjoys a delightful experience with her expertly brewed tea."

Ji is currently the head tea sommelier at Michelin two-star restaurant Lu Shang Lu and serves as the chief service mentor at Jiyue Tea, a platform focused on developing tea service systems and tea cultural products.

At Lu Shang Lu, she continues to deepen her understanding of Lu cuisine and perfect her tea pairings, while at Jiyue Tea, she and her team explore innovative tea and food pairings and train a new generation of tea sommeliers. Through her work, Ji hopes to further elevate Chinese tea culture within the culinary world.

The Michelin recognition has been a profound source of validation and encouragement for Ji. Looking ahead, she envisions a future where tea sommeliers have their own dedicated awards and hopes to inspire more people to pursue this evolving career.

Although tea servicing is a certified profession in the country, Ji says tea sommeliers specializing in tea and food pairing is not yet officially recognized as a profession in China, and she hopes the role will soon gain formal recognition.

Ji emphasizes that a tea sommelier must master all aspects of tea — tasting, brewing and service. "A skilled tea master precisely controls the brew's thickness and aroma, ensuring a smooth, sweet flavor while minimizing bitterness," she says.

"Our team is also certified as advanced tea appraisers," Ji adds, noting that these qualifications require deep knowledge of tea varieties, origins and processing methods, as well as the ability to assess quality and value.

Pairing techniques

In 2021, Du Yuemei founded the Jiyue Tea team, and Ji joined as a tea sommelier. Despite her years of experience in the tea industry, the art of pairing tea with food was a new challenge.

Ji recalls that when she began, many Chinese restaurants offered tea, but the selection was unimpressive, and guests rarely paid attention to it. "There was tea, but no real tea service," she says. "Restaurants didn't pair tea with food professionally, and there was no cultural storytelling or guest interaction."

Once Ji began collaborating with restaurants, her professional approach to tea service transformed the dining experience. "It not only increased revenue but also built stronger connections with guests. Now, many return not just for the food, but for the tea experience."

Today, Ji has become a master at the art of pairing food with tea. At Lu Shang Lu, the tea menu she and her team crafted offers 22 varieties, covering all major tea categories in China except for the lesser-known yellow tea.

"We've also included a selection of caffeine-free options, such as herbal and fruit teas, for guests who are sensitive to caffeine," she explains.

When it comes to pairing, Ji carefully considers the flavors and ingredients of each dish. "For example, our signature shrimp paste with steamed buns pairs beautifully with aged white tea. For seafood, we typically opt for green tea," she says.

A classic Lu dish, stewed pork intestines, with its bold, rich flavors, is paired with ripe Pu'er tea. "The aroma of Pu'er is subtle, while its mouthfeel is full and robust. It also helps cut through the richness of the dish," Ji explains.

In addition to creating thoughtful tea pairings for special menus, Ji customizes her recommendations based on individual guests and the dishes they order.

"We take into account factors like the weather and the guest's health when selecting the right tea," she adds. For example, in winter, when the air is dry and chilly, Ji often suggests brewing a pot of aged white tea.

Ji is also constantly exploring new brewing methods, such as using a coffee press for tea and experimenting with unique combinations of flowers and fruits.

For Ji, tea service is a lifelong journey. "Chinese tea culture is constantly evolving, and our tea-making techniques are advancing as well. There's always something new to learn and explore."

Du's first impression of Ji was of someone deeply passionate about both people and tea. "When we started exploring tea and food pairings at Jiyue Tea, the field was nearly untouched. Ji's enthusiasm was key to blending dining with Chinese tea culture," Du says.

"Ji is also incredibly resilient. Being a tea sommelier requires not just tea knowledge but an understanding of food and the entire restaurant workflow," Du adds. Having worked in nearly every restaurant role, Ji has a comprehensive understanding of operations and the vital role of tea service in promoting tea culture.

In recent years, Du's team has partnered with over 20 restaurants in Beijing, half of which are Michelin-starred. Du has seen firsthand how tea service is becoming an essential part of high-end dining.

"Ji's Michelin Sommelier Award has been a major boost for our team and the wider tea industry in China," Du says. "We aim to continue exploring tea and food pairings and inspire more people to appreciate Chinese tea."