If you are easily shocked, sit down before you read this: There are people in the world who do not use clarified butter to fry costoletta alla Milanese, or breaded veal cutlet.

"You wouldn't believe - people even make it with pork, or whatever," says chef Roberto Cimmino with a comic eyeroll.

"It is quite a simple dish," he says. "But you have to make it precisely, make it right."