Gucci delved into the vintage trunk and came out with 1960s silver and white A-line shifts and black, purple and orange mini-dresses with broad belts for its spring/summer 2007 collection.

Designer Frida Giannini has not been afraid to break with the black-and-sleek legacy of former Gucci man Tom Ford, hopping from floral patterns at her debut to 1970s disco glam to today's mod style.

Bell sleeves and multi-tiered dresses echoed some of the plays on volume seen also at Armani and Burberry, while jackets with little capes emphasised the shoulders and tapered down to a girded waistline.

Big sunglasses and swishy ponytails worn with a short, white coat and suits completed the 1960s look.

For the evening, the mod girl transformed herself into a flower child with floating paisley-print chiffon dresses that were given an edge by studded black tie-collars.

Gucci's owner, French retail giant PPR, was sure to like the many accessories on view - buckled boots, patent leather shoes with red heels and metallic bags looking custom-made to feed a booming leather goods market.

Giannini made her name at Gucci as a best-selling bag designer, positioning her well for the current handbag craze that pleases fashion houses because of high profit margins in the accessories business.

Fashion critics were less sure about the show.

Retro chic has ruled at Milan fashion week, with collections celebrating the 1950s, 60s, 70s and 80s, and there was hunger for something more original than Gucci's Beatles girl.

"It's been disappointing," said one fashion journalist who preferred not to be named.