A Kate Spade design makes a statement with patent.

NEW YORK — One of the shining stars of the fall fashion season is patent leather.

Yes, years ago it was considered a summer item — it was a way to lighten up black accessories to go with lighter clothes. It's also been associated with little-girl Mary Janes and the 1960s' mod look.

This year, though, patent is sophisticated. And cool — even wintry.

It's also colored. In addition to black, shoppers will find patent-leather accessories in white, navy, red and camel.

"This patent leather is not aggressive, not for power," says accessories guru Kate Spade. "It's for fun, for crispness, for shine."

With fashion taking a turn toward the more subdued — with notably little embellishment — the gleam of patent leather adds an extra bit of interest to an outfit, she adds.

It's more versatile than one might think.

Spade says it certainly can be dressy, especially in a dark colored shoe with a high heel. But it also can be casual if the shoe is a flat. "I imagine it with skinny cigarette pants and a khaki trench coat. Then there's the pop of a patent flat."

Another way to get that splash of shine is on a handbag. Spade says she's currently carrying a large, square shopper-style bag with patent leather trim and a patent snake clutch inside — both her designs, of course.

Abbe Held, creative director of Kooba, makes the case that a large patent bag is pretty practical: It keeps its shape, it's easy to clean and it's a great day-into-evening bag, she says.

"I wear patent-leather bags all year round," she says. "We always do patent leather for the cruise collection. They're summery enough to wear on a trip but you can also wear them in November and December because they're fresh and sexy."

Two additions to the line this year are a caramel-colored patent leather and crushed patent.

"We're known for our cognac- and bourbon-colored leathers. We wanted to bring it into the patent leather," Held says.