The head teacher of a British primary school has urged parents not to wear pyjamas when bringing their children in, for fear of setting them a bad example. But pyjamas, far from being seen as dowdy and scruffy, were once at the very apex of fashion.
英國一所小學的校長號召父母不要穿睡衣送孩子上學，以免給孩子樹立不好的榜樣。但睡衣并非一直是破舊和邋遢的象征，它曾經(jīng)引領(lǐng)時尚潮流。

The Lido, Venice's most famous beach, has been known for more than 150 years for its sophistication. So, an advertising poster from 1927 comes as something of a surprise.
麗都（Lido）是威尼斯最有名的一片海灘，它的優(yōu)雅迷人已經(jīng)流傳了150多年。因此，1927年的宣傳海報便使眾人驚嘆不已。

It proclaimed to potential wealthy visitors that the Lido was "the beach of sunshine and pyjamas". Its sands and hotels were places where people could feel comfortable spending days and evenings relaxing and partying in a garment today associated with bedtime, convalescence or days slobbing out on the sofa.
當時，麗都對有消費潛力的富有游客們宣稱，這里是“陽光和睡衣的沙灘”。在麗都，游客可以在沙灘和旅館享受輕松愉快的日間和夜晚聚會。如今，睡衣總與睡覺、養(yǎng)病和窩在沙發(fā)上的邋遢日子相聯(lián)系，而在當時，卻是放松和愉悅的象征。

In a week where a head teacher in Darlington has told parents not to do the school run wearing pyjamas for fear of not setting a "good example" to their children, it's hard to believe they were ever haute couture.
近日，達靈頓（Darlington）一所小學的校長告訴父母在接送孩子時不要穿睡衣，擔心這樣不利于為孩子們樹立一個好榜樣。我們很難相信，當時睡衣就是高級的定制服裝。

But the 1920s were a different time. While pyjamas - from the Hindi "paejama", meaning "leg covering" - had become established nightwear for men since the 1870s, it was seen as adventurous for a woman to wear trousers of any kind, especially in public.
但在20世紀20年代，情況完全不同：英文“睡衣”（pyjamas）一詞起源于印度語“ paejama”，意為“遮蓋腿部”。這種神似裙子的服裝在19世紀70年代就已被男士定義為睡衣。不過，當時對女士來說，穿任何款式的褲子都是一種冒險，尤其是在公共場合。

The force for change was the French fashion designer Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, who decided baggy pyjama-style trousers - complete with a loose-fitting shirt or a sleeveless top - could combine elegance and comfort.
法國時尚設計師香奈兒改變了這種現(xiàn)狀，她設計出了睡衣風格的寬松褲子，配上寬松的T恤和無袖上衣，簡直就是舒適與優(yōu)雅的結(jié)合。

As early as 1918, she began wearing "beach pyjamas". With their gender-confusing suggestion of the boudoir, they were seen as shocking, but such was Chanel's influence that they became popular among rich women by the mid-1920s.
在1918年早期，她開始穿“沙灘睡衣”。由于這種睡衣可能會混淆男女之間的性別差異，因此在當時引起了不小的震驚。但隨著香奈兒影響的不斷擴大，20世紀20年代中葉，沙灘睡衣在富有女子中間已經(jīng)廣受歡迎。

The up-and-coming resort of Juan-les-Pins on France's Cote d'Azur marketed itself on being less stuffy than rival destinations and became popularly known as "Pyjamaland" in English and "Pyjamapolis" in French, so commonly worn were they among its visitors. Some chose Chanel-style fashion pyjamas, but others, seemingly for fun, spent their days outdoors in actual bedtime pyjamas, complete with dressing gown.
位于法國藍色海岸的朱安雷賓是一個風頭正勁的旅游勝地。和其他旅游景點相比，它宣稱此處不那么“悶熱”，并作為“睡衣勝地”（Pyjamaland，法語作Pyjamapolis）聞名于世。因此，對這兒的游客來說，沙灘睡衣很常見。有人選擇了香奈兒的時尚睡衣，而其他人，似乎只是為了玩樂，穿著睡衣或浴衣參加戶外活動。

"There is a town in France, where summers start at the beginning of spring and ends at the end of autumn," wrote the journalist Robert de Beauplan in 1931. "There, you can see women wearing strange dresses. It's strictly speaking Pyjamapolis." In the same year, Vogue magazine was advertising pyjamas as "woollen suits for the beach".
記者德伯格蘭德（Robert de Beauplan）在1931年寫道：“法國有一個小鎮(zhèn)，夏季從春季初一直延續(xù)到秋季末，在那兒，你會發(fā)現(xiàn)女人們都穿著奇怪的衣服。嚴格來說，那簡直就是一座睡衣之城。”也就在那一年，《時尚》雜志把睡衣標榜為“沙灘上的毛制西服”。

In 1932, two women wearing brightly coloured pyjamas caused a stir on Brighton seafront as they promenaded while smoking pipes.
1932年，在布萊頓（Brighton）海濱區(qū)，兩名女士身穿亮色睡衣，漫步海灘，嘴含煙斗。這一舉動在當時引起一時轟動。

"Throughout the 1930s the styles spread further and could be seen lining the beaches of Britain, yet trousers for women remained somewhat taboo outside of the relaxed dress codes of the beach or the privacy of the home until later in the century," says fashion historian Amber Butchart.
時尚歷史學家安伯?布查特（Amber Butchart）說：“20世紀30年代，這種睡衣風格開始廣為流傳。在英國沙灘上，你會發(fā)現(xiàn)人們幾乎都穿著睡衣，但是除了休閑的沙灘睡衣或是家居服，女士仍然不能穿其他樣式的褲子，直到20世紀后期，這一限制才慢慢放松。”

Chanel herself discovered this attitude on a visit to Juan-les-Pins. The story goes that a doorman refused her entry to a casino. Its owner, Edouard Baudoin, intervened, saying: "Mademoiselle Chanel, you are living proof that one must not be merely dressed, but well-dressed." The publicity seemingly did neither Baudoin or Chanel any harm.
香奈兒去朱安雷賓度假時，發(fā)現(xiàn)了人們對待睡衣的態(tài)度。這個故事要從看門人拒絕她進入俱樂部說起。而老板愛德華?波丹（Edouard Baudoin）處理這件事時，說：“香奈兒女士，你就是活生生的例子，一個人不僅要穿，更要穿出品味。”這件事對波丹和香奈兒都沒啥影響。

By World War Two, the craze for pyjamas was fading, with the swimsuit overtaking it as the female beach clothing of choice. Chanel was again among those at the forefront of its popularisation. The post-war period saw the more revealing bikini take over.
直到第二次世界大戰(zhàn)，人們對睡衣的狂熱才逐漸消減，泳衣開始成為女性的不二選擇。香奈兒再次走在大眾化的前沿。戰(zhàn)后，比基尼成為沙灘的主流服裝。

But Robert de Beauplan's observations are a reminder of the effect pyjamas had on the inter-war world. They gave "women an unprecedented look, more free, cheekier, and its relaxed attitude always remains tasteful", he wrote.
但德伯格蘭德的記錄提醒了我們，睡衣在兩次世界大戰(zhàn)之間的影響。他寫道，睡衣“賦予女人前所未有的外表，更多的自由和更開放的行為。它帶給人們的舒適放松的享受，讓人回味”。

There were simple "classic" versions available, he added, and "more dressed-up" types, with a lower cut, especially at the back. "It's the afternoon outfit, for visits, tea, dancing and cocktails," wrote Beauplan. "There are also night pyjamas, which look like dresses from afar when you see them in casinos, until you see the person dance quickly the fox-trot and then, there's no mistaking."
他補充道，至今還保留一些“經(jīng)典的”款式，更多的是“盛裝”，領(lǐng)口低開，尤其是后背。他還寫道：“還有下午套裝，用來拜訪、喝茶、跳舞或是出席雞尾酒會。當然，也有晚宴睡衣，在俱樂部從遠處看，就像裙子一樣。但當你看到人們快速舞動著狐步時，你才會發(fā)覺，的確是睡衣。”

The world of fashion has seen a resurgence of interest in pyjamasas daywear recently, with some designers including them in their collections.
最近，睡衣再次風靡時尚界，一些設計師還專門設計了睡衣系列。

But they've become controversial again for a different reason. Kate Chisholm, head teacher of Skerne Park Academy in Darlington, County Durham, has complained that parents are turning up at school dressed in them. She's urged them to "dress appropriately in day wear", arguing this will set their children a better example, increasing pride and academic achievement.
由于各種原因，睡衣再次成為人們議論的焦點。達勒姆市（Durham）達令敦鎮(zhèn)斯克恩公園學院（Skerne Park Academy ）的校長凱特?奇澤姆（ Kate Chisholm）曾抱怨，父母穿著睡衣送孩子上學。她號召父母“穿著得體”，并談到這可以為孩子們樹立一個好榜樣，有利于自尊和學術(shù)成就的培養(yǎng)。

Similarly, in 2014, US fashion commentator Clinton Kelly remarked there had been a "downward spiral of style" over the previous decade. Adults who might pop to the local shop for a pint of milk or newspaper wearing slippers and pyjamas felt they had "permission not to care" about sartorial standards.
同樣，2014年，美國時尚評論員克林頓?凱利（Clinton Kelly）認為，在過去的幾十年，人們的風格品味在走下坡路。一些成年人穿著拖鞋和睡衣去當?shù)厣痰曩I牛奶或取報紙，并且覺得他們無需在乎著衣標準。

Some of the Skerne Park parents, who have been vilified on social media, could at least take succour from one of Chanel's best known remarks: "It is always better to be slightly underdressed."
斯克恩公園學院的部分父母在社交媒體上遭到了批評，但他們至少可以從香奈兒的一句名言中尋得安慰：“有一點點不得體才更好。”

Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel

§ Born in 1883 in Saumur, France, she was raised in an orphanage, where she learned to sew

§ She worked as a singer, where she picked up the nickname "Coco", before opening her first clothes shop in 1910

§ In 1921, she launched Chanel No 5, still one of the world's best-selling perfumes, and later popularised the "little black dress"

§ During the Nazi occupation of France in World War Two, she had an affair with a German officer, moving to Switzerland after hostilities ended

§ Chanel returned to Paris in the early 1960s, her fashions once again becoming popular, and died at the Hotel Ritz in 1971

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香奈兒

Coco Chanel

1883年，香奈兒出生于法國的索米爾（Saumur），在孤兒院長大，并在那學會了做針線活。

她當過歌手，由此而得綽號“Coco”，隨后，在1910年，開了自己的第一家服裝店。

1921年，她推出了香奈兒5號，至今仍是世界上最暢銷的香水之一。之后設計的“小黑裙”也廣受歡迎。

在第二次世界大戰(zhàn)納粹占領(lǐng)法國期間，她與一位德國軍官有過一段戀愛。戰(zhàn)后，搬到瑞士。

20世紀60年代早期，香奈兒回到巴黎，她的時尚理念再次得到人們認可。最后于1971年在里茲酒店去世。

英文來源：BBC

譯者：心若水

審校&編輯：yaning