Decorative door knockers are found at the entrance to many hutong houses. The facial expression on this one in Beijing almost seems to dare a visitor to use it. [Photo by Anne Ruisi / chinadaily.com.cn]

Thousands of hutongs grace the old city area, even after many were demolished to make way for new buildings, beginning in the mid-20th century. Today, just like 700 years ago, families live in the courtyard homes and small shops are open for business.

In the area just north of Beihai Park and Shichahai, the twisting alleyways lead to destinations that include Prince Gong's Mansion and the Houhai entertainment district. Explore the narrow corridors and discover the unexpected: tiny neighborhood restaurants, historic sites and a donkey restaurant or two.