The Chile supporters celebrate during the World Cup Group B victory over Spain at the Maracan?. Photograph: Wang Yuguo/Rex

（在位于里約熱內盧的馬拉卡納大球場里，智利隊球迷在B組小組賽結束后慶祝球隊戰勝西班牙隊。圖片來源：王玉國/Rex）

Olé! Olé olé olé! Chile! Chile! The Maracan? rang so loudly with snarky singing by the end that it felt as if it would take off and fly to Valparaíso, powered merely by voice. Spain has not been so cruelly humiliated since El Dorado was cancelled from British TV, its name so mocked since Manuel worked in Fawlty Towers, and the Chilean fans, who made up the overwhelming majority in the stadium, made sure they felt it.

"Olé! Olé olé olé!""智利！智利！"狂歡的歌聲和興奮的尖叫回蕩在馬拉卡納大球場（Arena Maracana）上空，僅僅是聲音就讓人感覺是快要降落在智利瓦爾帕萊索(Valparaiso)一樣。自從《埃爾多拉多》(El Dorado)被英國電視臺封殺后，自從曼紐爾為弗爾蒂旅館(Fawlty Towers)效力之后，西班牙隊這個名字已經沒有被如此羞辱過了。可占據場館中絕大多數席位的智利球迷們，十分確信它們又找到了羞辱西班牙的感覺。

Yet despite the boom of the chants, winning the game seemed almost to calm them, soften down their earlier near hysterical excitement to simply delighted contentment.

拋開一浪高過一浪的贊美不說，贏得這場比賽也在讓智利冷靜，他們需要從歇斯底里的興奮平息到簡單的心滿意足。

Chile’s fans? Excited? If any member of the press was somehow unsure of the answer to this when arriving to watch the match, despite having walked through what felt like several miles of Chile fans and Chile flags to reach the stadium, the answer soon landed in their lap – literally so, in some cases. It was not quite another Chilean coup d’état but it was certainly a storming of the barricades when a few dozen Chile fans rushed past an overwhelmed security, knocking over gates, and ran into the press room, breaking a glass door and tearing down a partition on their way.

智利的球迷呢？興奮嗎？如果有任何媒體朋友在觀看比賽時對這個問題的答案不確定的話，請看看場館里綿延數里的智利球迷和國旗，答案寫在每一個智利球迷的臉上——毫無疑問是肯定的。這不是一場智利政變，這是智利球迷突破了比風暴還強大的障礙，沖破了重重安保，撞擊著門，沖進直播間，破碎了擋道的一扇玻璃門和一面隔離墻。

What were they protesting against? Fifa? Football? General injustice? None of these, it seemed. They just wanted to get into the stadium without a ticket. Truly, the revolutionary spirit lives in the Chilean breast. Security guards eventually pulled themselves together and, after a bit of kerfuffle, marched them out – but not before the entire scene had been eagerly vined, tweeted and instagrammed to bejesus by the world’s sports press.

他們在抗議什么？國際足聯？足球本身？還是普遍不公？看起來他們抗議的不是其中任何一個。他們只是想逃票進入比賽的場館。實在的說，智利人的心中裝著革命精神。不過最終，騷亂之后，安保人員還是把這一群瘋狂的球迷控制在一起，押送出比賽場地。盡管是在一切都被全世界的體育記者討論、分享、發布上網之后。

It was almost enough to make one feel a little sorry for Fifa: the first real breach in security in this World Cup happened in the press room. Almost.

這就不得不讓人對國際足聯有一絲失望了：本屆世界杯的第一場真正的球迷違規事件居然發生在媒體中心。

On the other hand, while the fans may not have been making any particular protest, they did leave behind one instructive lesson. Among the destruction they left in their wake in the press area there was a small pile of Crocs. Lesson: if you are going to go on a rampage, opt for footwear that stays on your feet.

從另一方面來看，球迷們可能不是在制造任何抗議，而是實際上留下了一個具有指導意義的教訓。在球迷們在媒體區中造成的破壞里，有一堆卡洛馳拖鞋。教訓就是：如果你要參加一場騷亂，請選擇好腳上的裝備。

In truth, the excitement had been building for some time. Three hours before kick-off it already felt like a Chilean street party outside the Maracan?. Fans sporting the Chilean flag, or at least images of it, around their shoulders, on their face, in their hair and – feel the pride, Salvador Allende, democracy lives! – on beer cups affixed to their heads, clustered in rowdy packs in the street and caused traffic pile-ups.

事實上，這場騷亂在發生之前就有預兆。在停止售票的三小時前，馬拉卡納球場外就隱現智利球迷的街頭派對。球迷們揮舞著智利國旗或者是印著智利國旗的圖片，把它們掛在肩膀上、畫在臉上、綁在頭發上，以此來激發自己身為智利球迷的驕傲、薩爾瓦多精神和民主精神。球迷們將啤酒杯掛在頭上，成群的出現在大街上，你推我攘，十分粗暴；對當地交通造成了不小的麻煩。

Fans marched up and down, pleading for tickets to the sold-out game. Bars all round the area were filled with Chile fans bursting into songs that, what they lacked in tune, they more than made up for in volume and sheer good cheer.

球迷們沖上沖下，因為比賽門票售罄而爭論不休。這片區域內的酒吧里全都是走調大喊著歌曲的智利球迷。他們不斷提高嘶吼的聲音來歡呼鼓舞。

“Am I optimistic? Of course. We will win 2–0 for sure,” crowed Christian, with a triumphant swish of the Chilean flag about his shoulders.

“我樂觀嗎？當然啦！我們2比0贏了西班牙！”Christian歡呼著，驕傲的把自己肩上披的國旗甩得嗖嗖作響。

“Did you see Spain lose in the last match? Ha! Chi Chi Chi LE LE LE!” chanted a chap sporting the aforementioned beer cups on either side of his head, who gave his name as “Chile Forever.”

“你知道西班牙在上一場比賽輸給我們了嗎？哈哈哈！智利！智利！智利！”一個小伙子炫耀著說，并且頭的兩側玩弄著之前提到的那種啤酒杯——并稱之為“智利萬歲”。

At most of the matches so far there has been a heavy presence of Brazil’s yellow T-shirts among the crowd, locals happy to come to a match but still pointedly supporting the national team. But the prospect of a South American team beating the former champions overcame any sense of neighbourly rivalry.

在至今為止，大多數比賽中，巴西隊的黃色T恤在人群中出現得很多。巴西人本地人很意觀看世界杯比賽，但他們堅定地支持自己的國家隊。不過，對于南美隊伍智利擊敗前世界杯冠軍的期望還是克服了“鄰里之爭”觀念。

“Of course I am supporting Chile. Normally, no, but it’s good to see Spain lose. Everyone always wants the champions to lose, no? And I want the World Cup to stay in South America,” said Leo, a Rio native but wearing the full Chile kit for this event.

“我當然支持智利！正常來說，不，但是西班牙被淘汰是件好事。每個人都希望上屆冠軍吃敗仗，是吧？我還希望世界杯一直都在南美舉辦，”穿著智利國家隊球衣的里約當地人Leo說道。

A group of thirtysomething men wearing the Chilean flag as face paint turned out to be from New York. A woman wearing the Chilean flag as a minidress was from France. “You always support the underdog, no?” she asked rhetorically.

一眾三十多歲的男人身上披著智利國旗，臉上也畫著智利國旗的彩繪，可他們居然是從紐約來的。一位女士身著智利國旗圖案迷你裙，可她卻是法國人。“你總是支持失敗者，不是嗎？”她故作正經地說。

In fact, it was almost impossible to find any Spain fans, optimistic or otherwise, at all before the match, save for a cluster of young men in matador outfits who were attracting some requisite jeers. “I’m feeling good! I’m sure Spain will win,” said Gui Solzarno. “But to be honest, I don’t really care – I’m from Mexico.”

事實上，找到西班牙球迷的機會微乎其微，并且你還需要樂觀的看；不然不會在比賽開始之前，就有一群穿著斗牛士衣服的小伙子受到不少嘲笑。“我感覺很好！我確信西班牙會贏！”Gui Solzarno說，“但說實話我不是特別關心——因為我來自墨西哥。”

The old cliché goes that Brazil “bleeds football” and it certainly looked it in the Maracan?, with all the stands bathed in Spain’s and (mainly) Chile’s red shirts. The Canción Nacional was sung with such relish and basso profondo by Chile’s fans they nearly caused yet more damage to the press area by making it quiver.

說巴西是“血色足球”（bleed footall）或許是老生常談了，可在馬拉卡納就是這樣。所有的建筑都沐浴在西班牙和（主要是）智利的紅色球衣之中。智利球迷們津津有味的唱著男低音版的智利民族歌曲，他們激動得顫抖，差點制造了比對新聞中心更多的破壞。

The Marcha Real, by contrast, sounded downright pitiful. Beautiful things rarely have beautiful deaths and so it looked for Spain at that moment, surrounded by a full stadium of true and fair-weather Chile fans, come to watch them crash and boo them towards it.

相反的，西班牙隊歌聽起來就是徹頭徹尾的令人遺憾了。美物難美逝。所以，在那個瞬間，整個場館的智利球迷圍繞著西班牙隊喝著倒彩，見證西班牙的崩潰。

And when that crash finally came, the stadium took off in flight.

當那種失敗襲來的時候，馬拉卡納球場已經對西班牙漸行漸遠了。

（譯者：孫雋楠1102 編輯：王旭泉）